Marco... - Korcula, Croatia

Of course I should have known I would fall in love with an island named after a nymph; beautiful women don’t lend out their name to any old land-mass - it must be a place that bears their essence. Although my own name means “peaceful island,” I’ve yet to have any such location named after me - then again, I was only properly wed to a mortal, not brazenly abducted by the god of the sea.

The island is most commonly reached by a ferry crossing from Orebic on the mainland to to the walled town of Korcula.  Its largest claim to fame is that it was the birthplace of the illustrious explorer, Marco Polo.  The historical legitimacy is disputed, but I’ve no problem buying into possible hype if it adds to my experience.  I quite enjoyed hearing what Luke and Serenna learned of his adventures while standing outside the gate to his home, then after inspecting spy glasses and sextants in a dark shop that bore the same name, the air scented with a musky incense.

And speaking of scents. Have you ever had the opportunity to smell the effects of the hot sun on dry conifer needles? It’s heavenly. Reminiscent of the familiar holiday aroma, yet mellowed and earthier now in the latter part of its life. Korcula’s ocean vistas are all the more special with its bounty of firs gracing them, warped and twisted, stretching their canopies toward the sea. Breathing in their scent while gazing at the ocean hurt my heart the same way the pangs of first love once did, and so I fled one forest after such a heady but uncomfortable half hour. We experienced this best on the two isthmuses of “Raznjic” and “Prizba". While deciding where to stay on the island, I would strongly suggest homes along the shore between Prizba and Pupnatsa Luka. The towns were all quiet, with beautiful views of the water.

Prizba Peninsula

Near Brna

Zitna Beach

Our home for the week was Apartman Ranko, our favorite airbnb rental on the trip thus far.  We could practically touch the water by leaning over its balustrade.  The patios were flanked by several small gardens crowded with plump succulents and agaves shaded by grape vines.  Everywhere you looked was intensely beautiful, for the owners paid close attention to all details.  Neina was the kindest of hosts and made every effort to make our stay as comfortable as possible.  Our favorite part was the ladder that dropped from the property straight into the ocean below.  Even in October we were able to swim and sunbathe, the water refreshing yet not cold.  Homeschooling and working in such a setting was ideal, with breaks for snorkeling or fishing punctuating the day.

There is snorkeling on the island, and purchasing a simple set in the town of Korcula is very easy.  It's not tropical waters, but even below our house we found interesting urchins and bright starfish.  The most varied sea life is off the island's archipelago, where it's possible to book a professional snorkeling or diving tour.  If you want to explore on your own though, a great guide is found here. 

I'd be remiss if I only gushed about Korcula's waters.  Its interior is very special as well, with both olive groves and vineyards tempting travelers with opportunities to indulge in tastings.  Of course all good wine must be paired, and all oil drizzled,  so many of the farms include a restaurant where you can do both.  Our favorite local wine came as a gift from the owner of our apartment; Posip, a sweet white, alone crafted in the valley of Cara.  

Serenna turned double digits while we were in Korcula.  Ten feels rather official to a young girl, and we celebrated in grand style.  Luke and I awoke early and drove several sleepy towns over to a bakery.  The girl loves coconut and chocolate, so armed with treats including both ingredients, we hurried back, not taking enough time to gape at the early morning's light softly illuminating the countryside.  I'm not an early riser, but it was a drive I will not soon forget, with fog swirling around the trunks of old olive trees. Magnificent.

What to pre-teen girls do during their free time in Korcula?  Mine saved kittens.  An understandably demanding mamma cat came calling at the door our second day.  She had three kittens, and they were all hungry.  I gave them our leftovers, our milk, cat food, and anything else they demanded.  The littlest, however, was too weak to eat.  She shivered uncontrollably unless we had her wrapped in blankets on our laps, and Serenna heated water bottle after water bottle for her to lay against.  Still, by the end of the third, she had not eaten and was pitifully weak.  So we prayed.  We provided her with one last temptation - and she ate! In fact, she didn't stop eating for the next few days.  Her mother began to produce milk again and the kitten greedily added that to her diet.  This sweet baby we named "Cotton."

Korcula is a place for relaxation.  It is a place to take quiet drives and sip delightful wines.  And if you go during shoulder season like we did...Korcula is affordable!

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