Montenegro, where mountains meet sea. We went because we were told we must. We stayed because we couldn't bear leaving.
Along the coast of this minuscule country lies the Bay of Kotor, and along the Bay of Kotor lies small village after small village, with one exception - Kotor itself. Kotor is a fortified city, and one that belies belief. Its walls run up the side of the mountain spasmodically; they cling to crags and mount small valleys, utilizing the landscape if ever under attack.
And today it is under attack, by throngs of tourists disembarking their cruise ships before its very gates. They are there to plunder the shops of their wares and the bay of its fruits. I can't blame them one bit, really, for I was one of them. I took the advice of a local, however, and did not order fish from any of the area restaurants. During the warmer months, the demand is great, and more often than not you are served fish straight from the freezer, as opposed to straight from the water. Plunderers beware.
If you are a lover of felines, then you'll enjoy the silky creatures lurking around many a corner. Descendants from the first that arrived by trade ship, spoiled rotten by the townsfolk, they now walk a bit more proudly for their nefarious heritage. There is even a museum devoted to their species, where for a Euro you can immerse yourself in all things cat.
After eating, walking the city walls is a must. They are dotted with chapels and view points along the route, as well as a decent number of perspiring visitors. BUT we were given another tip by a local, one we eagerly executed. I'll save my pen by pointing you to the video below. You'll hear the tip and see the views.
Somehow or other, Adam fit in a mini-economics lesson while standing in front of the town's walls. The children cemented it by acting out the newly learned principle of "Might Makes Right." There is never a dull lesson or moment in this family - although the kids may disagree.
If you have access to your own vehicle, I strong recommend staying a handful of miles out from the city in either direction. It is here that time slows, crowds diminish, and you are left with an achingly beautiful view of the bay free from looming ships and loud voices.
We chose to stay at a fantastic airbnb home with only a short walk to the water. We highly recommend it for its beauty, location, and affordability. My favorite time of day was early morning, liking nothing better than strolling the water's edge, capturing the sights and sounds that filled me with such peace.
One day I had the brilliant idea of not just sitting by the water, but picnicking by it as well. I prepared a sumptuous feast and invited my guests. We chose a sunny spot in front of a long stone home, looking so friendly with its green shuttered windows and ivy clad entrance. I spread my blanket, and we began to partake. Not halfway through our meal, a loud shot rang out and a puff of smoke rose from behind my back. We jumped up and ran to the cover of nearby trees. It was a firecracker. We could only imagine it was aimed at us from someone behind those now hostile green shutters. We were a bit shaken, and moved our picnic further along the road. Had we missed something? Were we unknowingly eating on a private stretch of land? No. We asked our host and she indignantly replied that no one owns the walkway along the water, though some are wont to think so. It was open to public use and we were to call the police if ever someone was to again be so rude. It proves the point that there is no utopia; disgruntled people are everywhere, but so are kind and helpful ones. You must be thankful for the latter when they appear.
At the end of our week, as we headed towards the even mightier walls of Dubrovnik, we stopped at one last point along the bay. Some say the town of Perast is Kotor's loveliest, and certainly its view of the tiny islet of "Our Lady of the Rocks" is very unique. It is the islet itself, however, that attracts many visits with its tale of founding. In the mid-fifteenth century, seamen found a statue of Mary on a rock in the middle of the bay. Every time they returned from a successful sea voyage a rock was laid at the statue's feet in thanks for the Virgin's protection. After a time, old and seized ships were loaded with rocks and sunk in the same spot, in order to create an island for the church they there desired to build. The tradition continues to this day with locals taking to their boats on July 22nd each year to throw additional rocks around the ever increasing island. If you want to visit via boat, the town has many options available to you as you walk along the water's edge.
Along the coast of this minuscule country lies the Bay of Kotor, and along the Bay of Kotor lies small village after small village, with one exception - Kotor itself. Kotor is a fortified city, and one that belies belief. Its walls run up the side of the mountain spasmodically; they cling to crags and mount small valleys, utilizing the landscape if ever under attack.
And today it is under attack, by throngs of tourists disembarking their cruise ships before its very gates. They are there to plunder the shops of their wares and the bay of its fruits. I can't blame them one bit, really, for I was one of them. I took the advice of a local, however, and did not order fish from any of the area restaurants. During the warmer months, the demand is great, and more often than not you are served fish straight from the freezer, as opposed to straight from the water. Plunderers beware.
If you are a lover of felines, then you'll enjoy the silky creatures lurking around many a corner. Descendants from the first that arrived by trade ship, spoiled rotten by the townsfolk, they now walk a bit more proudly for their nefarious heritage. There is even a museum devoted to their species, where for a Euro you can immerse yourself in all things cat.
After eating, walking the city walls is a must. They are dotted with chapels and view points along the route, as well as a decent number of perspiring visitors. BUT we were given another tip by a local, one we eagerly executed. I'll save my pen by pointing you to the video below. You'll hear the tip and see the views.
Somehow or other, Adam fit in a mini-economics lesson while standing in front of the town's walls. The children cemented it by acting out the newly learned principle of "Might Makes Right." There is never a dull lesson or moment in this family - although the kids may disagree.
We chose to stay at a fantastic airbnb home with only a short walk to the water. We highly recommend it for its beauty, location, and affordability. My favorite time of day was early morning, liking nothing better than strolling the water's edge, capturing the sights and sounds that filled me with such peace.
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