Eight years ago my heart was broken. It was my first time in Europe, and I was bent on seeing castles and more castles. There was one in particular that I was the most excited for: Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe. In my daydreams I had peopled that stronghold with a fierce clan Chieftain and his alluring daughter...and that daughter looked a lot like me. When we arrived at Loch Awe, Kilchurn Castle lay on a tiny peninsula that jutted out into its waters. It was surrounded by fog, breathtaking and just how I imagined. Alas! I could not figure out how to get to the darn thing! There were no signs as expected - no footpaths, no giddy tourists - only sheep, miserable sheep.
This time I was not to be waylaid. I had done my research and knew how to find the small, almost imperceptible path that leads to the castle, and if I couldn't, I had the power of the law on my side. In Scotland, you have "the right to roam," meaning you can cross private lands as long as you do so respectfully. And so I made it to my castle through a fine drizzle and finally saw what was once home to the powerful Campbells of Glenorchy.
Loch Awe was only a stop on the way to the Isle of Mull, which was where we were headed for the next several days. You can access the island by three different ferry terminals, all run by Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries. We took the Oban to Craignure Ferry, arriving in the late evening.
The Isle of Mull is the second largest island in the Inner Hebrides. To us, it seemed a cross between Ireland and northern Scotland, with its mountains and hills being smaller in scale. We were to officially start "wild camping" in order to be in nature and save money, so we headed to the small town of Lochbuie, where setting up tents on shore is permissible. If you are interested in also wild camping, just read the Scottish Outdoor Access Code first. Lochbuie seemed beautiful behind the constant rain, but we don't suggest it as a base if you will be sightseeing every day; It is quite a detour from the main road.
The entire island is comprised of one lane roads, commonly blocked by gangs of sheep. They don't fancy moving for vehicles, and require a bit of prompting before letting out a disgruntled "baaa" and stepping aside. We thought them adorable the first three days, but wanted to slap them on their naughty behinds by the fourth. They also hate the rain and cold as much as I do and took cover when able.
Tobermory is Mull's main town, picturesque with its colorful buildings and ships. We took a short hike overlooking the bay, then walked through town, carefully choosing our restaurant for lunch. We were tired by the time we sat, but perked up after the delicious fare of local caught mussels and fish and chips.
I'm crazy about standing stones. I'm not sure why exactly, but I assume it must be a combination of their sizable stature, mysterious purpose, and venerable age. I know they contain no magic, but gosh darn it do I wish it so; I don't think I am ever so happy as when my back is to a good Bronze Age beauty. The first stones we saw in Scotland were near Glengorm Castle, now a bed and breakfast establishment. To see the stones you must pass through a gate near the coffee shop and proceed down the path. This little jaunt would be worth the effort even if there weren't stones to see. Grazing Highland Cattle delighted us with their droll expressions and shaggy coats.
Pass the coffee shop and look for this gate.
I really need to let go of the whole Outlander obsession.
The beach at Calgary Bay is one of the most photographed in Scotland. We spent a couple hours there playing in the sand (Luke and I) and swimming in the ocean (Serenna and Adam); some of us in the family prefer staying warm, and others have seal blood.
The video below is one of my favorites. Wait for it...and don't worry, Adam had a talk with Luke after.
We did a lot of driving on Mull, but there was always something interesting to see. Put the music on, roll down the windows, and enjoy what comes your way - be it beasts, waterfalls, or clever signs by locals "dreering their own weird."
Fidden Farms. There was something in the name, something in the online description that beckoned me and promised a memorable time. I wanted to camp at Fidden Farms with everything inside of me, and planned out my time there weeks prior to arriving. I would wade through the tide pools, sip coffee overlooking the bay at sunset, and luxuriate in the warm showers. Adam teased me relentlessly for my preoccupation with the place, but agreed to stop for a night; the man loves me very much and spoils me rotten. Sometimes travel does not work out how we hope, though. The wind was blowing madly when we arrived, and while less harried families flew kites, we fought tarps and tent poles. I realized the showers would not be much help with only dirty underwear and socks to put on after, and so stuffed our unmentionables into an empty container of water, squirt in soap and tea tree oil, and shook it for a full twenty minutes. The water turned black. Evening was quickly approaching, so I hung our clothes on the car doors to dry, running to catch a fly away sock every two minutes. Dark fell with no time spent in tide pools or watching sunsets, but at least I would have the hot shower to enjoy! The line was long, the water came down in only a trickle, and I caught a chill that was to stay with me the entire night. Fidden did not work out as expected, but certainly from no fault of its own. I have no photos share, but I’d give it a chance If I was you.
Near Fionphort lies the small islands of Staffa and Iona. Out of Staffa emerges a large sea cave made entirely of perpendicular basalt columns, stepping stones for the gods I'm sure. This beautiful cavern elicits awe from all who visit; Johann Mendelssohn was inspired to compose "The Hebrides" after his time there. Sir Walter Scott described the cave with precision.
"..one of the most extraordinary places I ever beheld. It exceeded, in my mind, every description I had heard of it ...composed entirely of basaltic pillars as high as the roof of a cathedral, and running deep into the rock, eternally swept by a deep and swelling sea, and paved, as it were, with ruddy marble, baffles all description."
During the summer months a colony of puffins reside on the island and the tour provides time to visit. Unfortunately, they were not on land when we arrived at their nesting location, but the walk to it was stunning.
The same boat to Fingal's Cave can later drop you off at Iona. Iona boasts several beautiful hikes and beaches, but is best known for its Abbey, the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland. Established in 563 AD by Irish missionary St. Columba, from it came not only the beautifully illustrated Book of Kells, but also the design of the widely copied Celtic Cross. While there we attended a short prayer service for world peace.
After only four days it was difficult leaving Mull, but we were to continue our travels on the Isle of Skye, and so our adieus were less sorrowful than they otherwise might have been.
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